Nikon FM 2 Black Camera Body
date : November 5th, 2011New Digital SLR Camera
Review : 2 Reviews
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Tags : Black, Body, Camera, Nikon
- The FM2/n has a long-standing reputation for reliability and durability
- It has an extremely strong body of copper silumin aluminum
- he FM2′s film transport consists of high-strength hardened metal gears and moving parts, mounted on clusters of ball bearings
The FM2/n has a long-standing reputation for reliability and durability[1]. It has an extremely strong body of copper silumin aluminum alloy[2]. The FM2′s film transport consists of high-strength hardened metal gears and moving parts, mounted on clusters of ball bearings. The vertical metal shutter, originally titanium and switching to aluminum during the FM2n life cycle, utilizes precision tapered high-strength blades and oil-less self-lubricating bearings. The mirror linkage uses the same mech
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Excellent body.,
It is a shame Amazon allows negative review on a particular camera to be put on when the buyer got the wrong camera and not that the camera, the Nikon FM2, was the problem.
I own this body and can attest to the fact that it is perfect for someone who wishes to have total control over the pictures they are taking.
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|There are no training wheels here.,
It is a serious, spectacular camera. It hearkens back to a time when Photographers had to know their stuff. It is 100% mechanical, which is why it’s the preferred camera of certain National Geographic photographers. there are no electronic shutters to jam, or batteries to die in freezing weather. It is heavy, you will know if you have to carry it around all day. It adjusts in full stops only.
Make sure you get the FM2/n version. The only difference on the exterior is that the flash sync is 1/250, marked in red on the shutter dial. This denotes a special TITANIUM shutter that’s way faster and way more reliable. The other two versions, with aluminum shutters, sync at 150 & 200. My FM2n is older than me, and the shutter is still perfectly accurate.
The meter seems like it was thrown in as an afterthought, and generally tends to want to over or under expose by 1/3 to 1 stop. Why? because the 60/40 meter split reads too much of the frame for most subjects, and it compensates by telling you that it’s over or under exposed, when it’s probably not. The easy fix is to know your exposures. A separate incident light meter is highly recommended. My little Sekonic L308S fits in my pocket and is way more accurate than the meter on the camera.
It also has some interchangeable parts. The film door from the FM3a will fit on the FM2n, the only difference being that the FM3a’s door has that little window for reading the film type & speed from the roll. There’s also removable focusing screens. Most come with the split-prism style. There’s also different versions by nikon, & some aftermarket companies make them for upwards of $90, if that’s your thing.
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